1. How to clean tools/brush: Use soap & water, paint thinner or Kwikeeze.
2. Coverage of removers: 50-100 sq. ft per gallon depending on layers of paint to be removed. Pint - 12 sq. ft, Quart - 25 sq. ft, Gallon - 100 sq. ft
3. After stripping surface: Should be cleaned with nylon pot scrubber or cloth dipped in paint thinner/mineral spirits, Deglosser or water solution of TSP/TSP-PF or other heavy duty cleaner if using water wash method (not for Kutzit). Recommend paint thinner or Deglosser for fine wood & antiques (water raises grain of wood).
4. New finish not going on smoothly: Check if person has removed residue with Deglosser/Mineral Spirits or TSP & water. Clean surface with steel wool dipped in paint thinner to get in all grooves.
5. Remover not working: Check if temperature is above 65^OF. Below 65^OF removers work slow or not at all. Recommend spot test to see if remover will work. If close to 65^OF, work in small area & use plastic or wax paper over top to keep heat inside, chemicals from evaporating then check if working.
6. Flammability: Kutzit & Strypeeze are flammable - use outdoors. Observe precautions on containers.
7. Non-Flammable: SuperStrip & Sprayable Strypeeze recommended for indoors.
8. Biodegradable Strypeeze: Best for closed-in, poorly ventilated areas such as indoors in winter
9. Remover eating through gloves: Use solvent resistant gloves such as neoprene.
10. Best working area: Outdoors in the shade.
11. Lumps in Kutzit or Strypeeze: Will not affect stripping as due to wax in remover.
12. Stripping kitchen cabinets with original finish & remover not working: Use SuperStrip.
13. Storage of removers: OK to be in area below freezing. Bring to room temperature 24 hrs before use. May need to mix a bit as wax may separate but freezing will not affect remover.
14. Disposal of removers:

Give to friend to use.

Call local town hall to see when they collect old paints &/or their policy.

Save until next job.

Stripping residue - allow sludge to dry and chemical to evaporate (usually put on newspaper) and then toss out.

15. H2OFF = Strypeeze Sprayable: Can be used to take paint off wrought/rod iron and other metals. Precaution on can refers, for example, to metal on a boiler where product might come in contact with a flame & become a poisonous gas. Also can be used to take paint off plaster. Only use our plastic pump as it has a special coating just for chemicals.
16. Strypeeze: Will not harm glass, wipe off with mineral spirits.
17. Graffiti Remover: Do not use on Formica, vinyl siding and plastic.
18. Fiberglass: No guarantee remover will not damage fiberglass. If want to try, use SuperStrip only in small area and have bucket of hot, soapy water. Apply SuperStrip and as it begins to work immediately apply soapy water to neutralize SuperStrip. Remind them of the no guarantee. (Do not use Strypeeze because of Acetone.) Removers okay for Thermo-True doors.
19. Wicker Furniture: Make sure it is real wicker (some are rolled newspaper). Any remover will do.
20. Brass: Removers ok on brass - will take off lacquer.
21. Plaster Walls: Use SuperStrip with a mineral spirit wash.
22. Aluminum: Removers will work.
23. Milk Paint: Removers will not work. Use 1 lb. box of TSP with 1-gallon very hot water.
24. Vinyl siding: Do not use removers as they damage vinyl - use TSP to remove paint/prepare surface.
25. Veneer: Do not use water wash method.
26. Fast: Pregnant women can use but always check with physician first (does have an odor)
27. Fast not working & disposal: Scratch wallpaper with knife, double mix & keep solution hot. Can add 1 tablespoon white vinegar with gal of fast/water mixture. May put Fast down toilet.
28. Wallpaper glue on wall: Can use Fast for glue (Fast does not have TSP in it).
29. Lacquer not drying: The most likely cause is solvents from the stripping process have not completely evaporated out of the wood. Open grain woods are prone to absorb a lot of material. High humidity can also cause the solvents to evaporate slowly. This will cause the lacquer to stay "open". A fan blowing air across the piece will speed the evaporation process. Rinsing with Deglosser can also cure the problem.

Paint removers, or strippers, are not merely one chemical, but a combination of them, each with a specific job to do. This document provides information on solvent-based removers, those that use chemical solvents to remove the old finish.

Solvent-based strippers come in three forms: liquid, heavy-bodied and semi-paste. In general, the liquid works best for varnish and lacquer finishes on such things as antiques with flat horizontal surfaces. The heavy-bodied and semi-paste are very similar with the semi-paste being slightly thicker. The heavy-bodied and semi-paste removers will cling to rounded and upright surfaces making them ideal for irregular surfaces. Removers may also be flammable or nonflammable. Nonflammable removers would be the choice for interior work. The active ingredient in many solvent-based strippers is a chemical called methylene chloride. Methylene chloride is present in the paint remover to penetrate, blister, and finally lift the old finish. Other chemicals in paint removers work to accelerate the stripping process, to retard evaporation, and to act as thickening agents.

It goes without saying that any chemical or combination of chemicals with the potency to lift off old paint should be treated with respect in terms of safety. So, while solvent-based strippers work fast and are harmless to wood, they may pose health hazards to humans and should be used in strict accordance with product label instructions.

A complete discussion of safety and health-risk issues follows the "Procedure/Cleanup and Disposal" section of this document. With any product, always be sure to read individual product labels and follow them exactly.

1. Safety Goggles (completely covering the eye).
2. Rubber Gloves that are chemical-resistant, such as neoprene or butyl not the dish washing kind.
3. Clothing that covers all skin: long sleeved shirts, pants, socks and shoes. If working at eye level or above, wear a cap or hat.

1. Paint brushes. An old wide brush will do. Use a natural-bristle brush, as synthetic bristles will deteriorate rapidly.
2. Scraper. A wooden type scraper is ideal; however, if not available then a dull, flexible-blade putty knife can be used. If necessary, dull both the cutting edge and the corners of the blade with a metal file; otherwise, you might gouge the wood.
3. Toothbrush, toothpick, cotton swabs. These come in handy for getting into tiny crevices or when working with intricate designs in the wood.
4. Nylon pot scrubber. Helpful for removing the stripper or old finish from the pores in open-grained woods such as walnut, oak or mahogany. Also, use to prepare surface for a new finish when cleaning by the water wash method.
5. Metal cans. Large coffee cans are good both for holding the paint remover while work is in process and for collecting the waste (sludge) when the work is done. Whatever type of metal container you use, make sure it has a securely fitting lid.
6. Twine, coarse string or burlap. Handy for removing sludge from leg turnings (using shoe shine or back-and-forth rubbing motion).
7. Stiff-bristle scrub brush. Useful for removing old finish in places inaccessible to a scraper.
8. Disposable pie pans or some other suitable container. Place under legs of furniture to catch drippings.
9. Dropcloth, newspaper, cardboard and old rags. Try to gather as much material as possible to catch drippings and sludge to protect the surface underneath the work. Paint removers can damage linoleum, asphalt, plastic and vinyl.
10. TSP, TSP-PF or other strong detergent. Add to water when rinsing surface by the water wash method to improve cleaning action in preparation for new finish. Use water wash method only with removers that are water rinsable.
11. Deglosser or mineral spirits. If not rinsing by the water wash method then clean surface with Deglosser or mineral spirits. Deglosser will do a better cleaning job than mineral spirits. This method is recommended for fine woods, antiques and veneered surfaces. All removers can be cleaned by this method.

The single most important consideration in selecting a work site is the availability of fresh air. The best location is outdoors, preferably in a shaded area, a carport or under some type of cover to shield the work from the sun. The sun unduly speeds up the evaporation of the remover. A garage with windows and doors on two sides to create adequate cross ventilation also can be used. Avoid working indoors if at all possible.

If you must work indoors, open all windows and, if possible, all doors to achieve a strong flow of fresh air through the work area. It is advisable to use forced ventilation (fan) to improve the flow of fresh air. Because some removers are flammable use only nonflammable removers indoors. The product label is the key. It will advise you on flammability and proper ventilation.

Do not allow children to play in the work area to avoid exposure to paint removing chemicals.

Some physical symptoms that indicate overexposure are eye irritation, dizziness, light-headedness and/or headache. As soon as you experience any of these, take a break and get some fresh air. Do not resume the project until you have increased the ventilation through the work area. For your comfort and safety, take fresh-air breaks frequently and leave the work site whenever you are not actually applying or removing stripper.

When setting up your work area, it is a good idea to elevate the work by using saw horses or some equally sturdy support. This accomplishes three things. 1. By having the work slightly above waist level, you will reduce the chance of getting a backache that often comes from prolonged bending. 2.For best results, the work should not touch the floor. 3. The solvent vapors are heavier than air and sink towards the floor level.

1. For best results work in warm weather. A good working temperature range is from 65 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit. As mentioned earlier, try to work in the shade even if it means moving the work as the sun moves.
2. Remove as much hardware as possible from the piece. Use masking tape to cover any hardware that can't be removed. You may even want to polish handles, rings or other ornamental hardware while you're waiting for the remover to do its work.
3. Wear chemical-resistant gloves and safety goggles to avoid contact with the skin and eyes. Chemicals in paint removers can be painful and irritating if splashed into the eyes or onto the skin.
4. When you're ready to use the paint remover, STOP! Read the entire label before opening the container. Cover the container with a cloth and shake then open the cap slowly to allow for the gradual release of pressure buildup.
5. Carefully pour the remover into one of the metal cans you have collected. Replace the container cap tightly each time you pour some remover. Store the container in a cool place when not in use. Dip your brush into the metal can and bring out a generous portion of remover.
6. Don't apply the remover as you would paint. In fact, don't "brush" on the remover in the usual sense; rather "lay" it on in much the same way as you would icing on a cake. Working in one direction, preferably on a flat surface, apply the remover to an area of about two square feet at a time. If you are working on a vertical surface, such as a table leg, start at the top and work down.
7. You will have to wait while the remover is working. The time required for the stripper to remove the old finish varies among products. In general, removal time is from 15 to 20 minutes. The more layers of paint the longer the stripping time. More durable finishes such as polyurethane also require longer working times.
8. While the remover is working, bide your time. Get some fresh air, away from the worksite, to reduce your exposure to the paint removing chemicals.
9. When the remover has done its work, it's time to remove the resulting sludge. A gentle scraping with a dull putty knife will take the residue right off. Scrape away from you and go with the grain to minimize the effect of any scratches made by the blade. On carved or grooved surfaces, a toothpick, coarse twine or old toothbrush can greatly aid the removal process. Wipe off your tools frequently on newspaper.
10. The first section or two will be a trial-and-error process until you determine how many coats of paint you are trying to remove. The object is to remove all the old finish from one section at a time. On very old furniture with many coats of paint, several soak-and-scrape operations may be required. Wait the full time for each layer you add, and be equally generous with each successive coat. As you are probably beginning to realize, stripping isn't hard at all, but it does take patience.
11. As you remove the paint, wrap the residue in plenty of newspaper and place outdoors, in the open air, so the liquid will evaporate completely before sealing all materials in one of the clean metal containers for disposal (more on this later). After removing the bulk of the sludge from the piece, use the old rags or burlap to wipe away any remaining residue with Deglosser, mineral spirits or by the water wash method. Place used rags outdoors as well.
12. All traces of the stripper must be removed for the new finish to adhere properly. This is especially true for open-grained woods like walnut, oak or mahogany. Allow the piece to dry overnight before continuing with the refinishing.

As you finish a section, wrap the remover/old finish in a thick fold of newspaper and place outdoors, where the liquid will evaporate quicker. After each work session, place all other papers, rags, applicators and waste (old-finish residue) outdoors. Be sure to collect all of the residue, as the old paint may contain toxic materials.

Clean work materials such as the scraper and paintbrush with Kwikeeze brush cleaner, mineral spirits or if using water wash method then detergent solution.

When the liquid has evaporated (it typically evaporates very fast), place all these materials into a metal container that has a secure lid. You can then dispose of the material according to local waste disposal requirements. Contact your local sanitation department or waste disposal contractor for more information.

Preparing a surface for a new finish should be rewarding experience. Knowing the proper use of a chemical paint remover, and how to avoid potentially adverse effects from overexposure, will make the experience that much more enjoyable. Moreover, the confidence that comes from such knowledge will no doubt have a positive effect upon the quality of your work. Following are general discussions related to short-term (acute) and long-term (chronic) health effects pertaining to the use of chemical paint removers. Any potential health risk from exposure to paint removing chemicals depends on the amount and duration of exposure.

Exposure to high levels of paint removers over short periods of time can cause irritation to the skin, eyes, mucous membranes and respiratory tract. Other symptoms of high exposure are dizziness, headache and lack of coordination. The occurrence of any of these symptoms indicates that you are being exposed to an excessive amount of the substance. At the onset of any of these symptoms, you should leave the work area and get some fresh air. Do not resume the project until you have increased the ventilation through the work area.

A portion of inhaled methylene chloride in paint stripper is converted by the body to carbon monoxide, which can lower the blood's ability to carry oxygen. When the solvent is used properly, however, the levels of carbon monoxide should not be hazardous. Individuals with cardiovascular or pulmonary health problems should check with their physician prior to use of the paint stripper. Individuals experiencing severe symptoms such as shortness of breath or chest pains should obtain proper medical care immediately.

Methylene chloride has been shown to cause cancer in certain laboratory animal tests. Recent studies suggest methylene chloride is not likely to cause cancer in humans. The research concluded that the type of enzyme activity responsible for the formation of the cancer causing metabolite in mice is not present in human tissue. However, as a result of the animal studies, EPA does classify methylene chloride as a potential cancer hazard to humans. It is prudent to minimize exposure to solvent vapors.